Fashion! Art! Music! The home of Blink Friction a UK-based creative collective that merges sustainable fashion, collectible art, and rare books into a unique cultural experience. Founded by artist and musician Sarnia de la MarĂ© FRSA, the brand champions eco-conscious design, artistic storytelling, and community engagement.​

Jan 26, 2025

Handmade by Sarnia, a Pattern Free Guide to creating Beautiful Clothing for Novice Fashion Designers


Making Clothes Without Patterns: A Creative Guide with 'Handmade by Sarnia'

Designer iServalan Gif
Handmade by Sarnia books take the
mystery out of making clothes

In the world of fashion, patterns have long been the go-to tool for anyone wanting to create garments with precision. These paper templates detail every seam and curve, guiding makers step-by-step through the process of constructing a piece of clothing. However, working with patterns can often be intimidating—especially for beginners—due to their complexity and the technical know-how required to decode them.

But what if you didn’t need a pattern at all? What if you could create stunning, one-of-a-kind garments using your own intuition and a more free-form approach? That’s exactly what Handmade by Sarnia is championing with its upcoming book series, launching this week! The series features a collection of patternless Kimtans, ponchos, and capes, with full instructions designed for even the most inexperienced makers.

Let’s dive into the world of patternless fashion, explore cultures that have mastered this art, and uncover how you can create beautiful clothes with just a few basic tools—no complex patterns needed!

The Complicated World of Patterns

For many, patterns can feel like a necessary evil. While they help ensure garments are properly constructed and fit the body well, they can also make the process feel more like assembling a jigsaw puzzle than a creative, expressive activity. The multiple pieces, confusing symbols, and need for precise measurements can be off-putting, especially if you’re new to sewing.

With the rise of DIY fashion and upcycled clothing, more people are looking for simpler, more accessible ways to make their own garments without having to rely on traditional patterns. That’s where patternless fashion comes in—a method of creating clothing based on fabric draping, intuition, and creativity.

Cultures Without Patterns: The Art of Simple Draping

Across many cultures, clothing has been made for centuries without the use of complex patterns. These communities rely on their understanding of fabric, the human form, and the natural world to craft beautiful, functional garments.

  • West African Garments: In West Africa, garments like the boubou and kaftan are made from large pieces of fabric, folded and draped around the body in fluid, comfortable ways. The beauty of these garments lies in their simplicity and the use of vibrant patterns on the fabric itself.

  • The Japanese Kimono: One of the most famous examples of clothing created without a traditional pattern is the kimono. Kimonos are constructed from rectangular pieces of fabric that are folded and wrapped around the body. Their structure is based on draping and proportion, with minimal cutting or waste involved.

  • The Sari in India: Another iconic example is the sari, a long piece of fabric that is draped in various ways around the body. With no cutting or sewing required, the sari can be styled differently for regional variations or personal preferences, making it both versatile and sustainable.

These cultures show that clothing doesn’t need to be complex to be beautiful or functional. The art of draping allows the fabric to shine in its natural form, without the need for intricate cutting and stitching.

Draping and Fabric Sculpting: A Creative Approach to Design

Draping is a technique that allows you to shape fabric directly onto a body or mannequin, adjusting and pinning it as you go to create a custom fit. It’s an incredibly hands-on approach, allowing you to interact with the fabric and explore how it behaves as it falls and folds.

When you drape, you treat the fabric almost like clay, sculpting it into the desired form. This method allows for creativity to flourish, as there are no strict rules—just you, the fabric, and your imagination. You can experiment with how the material moves, how it shapes the body, and how different textures and weights affect the overall look and feel of the garment.

Handmade by Sarnia’s new book series embraces this method of design, with a focus on easy, approachable projects for those who are new to making clothes. The series features detailed guides for creating Kimtans, ponchos, and capes that do not require traditional patterns but instead use simple instructions and draping techniques. This allows makers of all skill levels to produce stunning pieces with minimal equipment.

'Handmade by Sarnia' Book Series: Pattern-Free Fashion for Everyone

Launching this week, the Handmade by Sarnia book series is a celebration of the freedom and creativity that comes with making clothes without patterns. The first book in the series focuses on patternless Kimtans, ponchos, and capes, offering step-by-step instructions for each design.

What makes this series truly special is its accessibility. Even if you’ve never sewn a garment before, you can follow the instructions and produce stylish, on-trend pieces. The designs are simple, yet elegant, and require no advanced sewing skills—just a love for fabric and a desire to create.

What You’ll Find in the Book Series:

  1. Patternless Kimtans: Inspired by traditional garments, the Kimtan combines elements of both the kimono and the kaftan. These flowing, unisex garments are perfect for layering, and the lack of a rigid pattern means you can easily adjust them to your own size and style preferences.

  2. Ponchos and Capes: Ponchos and capes are ideal beginner projects because they rely on simple cuts and draping. The book series shows how to make these timeless, versatile pieces with just a few basic stitches. Using recycled fabrics like old quilts or curtains, you can craft beautiful, eco-friendly outerwear in no time.

  3. Clear Instructions for Beginners: Each project in the book series includes clear, detailed instructions, accompanied by illustrations that guide you through every step. This makes it perfect for those who are new to sewing or those who want a no-fuss approach to making their own clothes.

  4. Sustainability in Fashion: With an emphasis on using upcycled or sustainable fabrics, the Handmade by Sarnia series encourages mindful making. You’ll learn how to source budget-friendly materials and transform old fabrics into stunning new garments, reducing waste and embracing slow fashion.

Why Make Clothes Without Patterns?

There are several reasons to explore the world of patternless fashion:

  • Creative Freedom: Without the constraints of a pattern, you have more room for creativity. You can play with shapes, textures, and styles, creating unique garments that reflect your personal style.

  • Fit Flexibility: Draping allows you to fit garments directly onto the body, adjusting as you go to ensure the perfect fit. This makes it easier to create custom pieces that feel comfortable and look great.

  • Sustainability: Patternless designs often result in less fabric waste, as many garments are created from simple shapes and large pieces of fabric. This makes it an eco-friendly approach to fashion.

  • Beginner-Friendly: If you’re new to sewing, patternless projects can be less intimidating than working with traditional patterns. With just a few basic tools and some fabric, you can create a garment without needing to follow complex instructions.

Conclusion: Unleashing Your Inner Designer

With the launch of the Handmade by Sarnia book series, you now have the chance to embrace the art of patternless fashion. Whether you’re an experienced maker looking for a new challenge or a beginner eager to try your hand at clothing design, these books offer a fun, accessible way to create beautiful, wearable pieces.

So why not give it a try? Let go of the rules and restrictions of patterns, and discover the joy of crafting clothes that are as unique and free-flowing as your creativity allows!



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The Soldier by The Marchioness of Dorchester (circa 1625 during the The Anglo-French War )


The Soldier

by The Marchioness of Dorchester (circa 1625 during the The Anglo-French War )



A suitor bold and handsome once arrived

Twas early in a day unspent

A proud soldier on horseback,

A burning wish to vent


‘In courtly dance I wield mine mighty dart’

Said he, appearing finely dress’d

In polished armour

His lance

Colossal,

For this quest confessed.


‘With quivering heart, I seek my lady fair,

Her gaze, the target of my fervent plea’

Said he

Such chivalric pursuit was indeed

Beyond compare

His lance, a beacon of….

Virility.


‘Yet, not in war, but passion's grand display,

I wield mine

Shaft,

Erect, a symbol of desire

To pierce the veils that shroud love's subtle play

In earnest yearning

To set your heart afire.


Behold, mine love, this lance of passion true,

A token bold, my heart laid bare for you.


Would mine lady touch my lance

Before I leave

Tonight

for France?’


Welcome to the digital world of iServalan, a modern artist on a futuristic mission.

 iServalan is an evolving digital brand that explores the boundaries between art, music, and technology, offering a bold contrast to the tactile, handcrafted nature of Handmade by Sarnia. Working with minimalistic yet striking color palettes—often monochrome—iServalan’s illustrations are unique, amusing, and deeply thought-provoking. Whether working in digital drawings or creating music, iServalan fuses a creative ethos that’s rooted in experimentation and the endless possibilities that technology offers.

As a member of the Tale Teller Club, iServalan has carved a niche in the music world, embracing electronic synths, vocoders, and cutting-edge audio techniques. The band's sound, shaped by iServalan’s tech-driven sensibilities, merges jazz and classical influences with a futuristic twist, embodying a seamless integration of traditional art forms with modern digital technology. Just as iServalan harnesses digital tools to bring her illustrations to life, she also uses similar digital techniques to enrich her music-making process, proving that technology can enhance an artist’s work without compromising authenticity.

In both the visual and auditory realms, iServalan isn't afraid to explore the dynamic relationship between creativity and technology. In her illustrations, simple color schemes and playful concepts become part of an innovative process that transcends the canvas. In her music, synthetic sounds blend with organic elements to create something that feels both timeless and contemporary.

As technology continues to evolve, so too does iServalan’s vision, constantly pushing boundaries and embracing new methods. Her work stands as a testament to the opportunities digital media presents to modern creators, encouraging other artists to dive headfirst into the digital landscape.

With examples of her art, such as the one showcasing a woman in bold, blocky designs operating a washing machine and another in an avant-garde geometric outfit, iServalan plays with humor, fashion, and commentary in ways that provoke thought. These images, paired with her work in the music of Tale Teller Club, show a cohesive and forward-thinking vision, where art and tech meet seamlessly.

Through iServalan, it becomes clear that the digital realm is not just a tool but a platform for expanding artistic boundaries, offering endless opportunities for the future of creativity.


The Art of Drawing Fashion Designs: A Journey from Antique Bookplates to Digital Masterpieces

The Art of Drawing Fashion Designs: A Journey from Antique Bookplates to Digital Masterpieces














Fashion illustration is an art form that has evolved alongside fashion itself, documenting and shaping trends, culture, and aesthetics. The process of drawing fashion designs involves a deep understanding of both form and style, and fashion illustrators have long played an essential role in the fashion industry. Let's explore the history of this beautiful craft and how it has transformed from the days of bookplates to the age of digital tools.

The Origins: Bookplate Illustrations and Early Fashion

Fashion illustration can trace its roots to bookplate illustrations from antique books. In the 18th and 19th centuries, these beautifully crafted images were not only decorative but served as one of the earliest means of illustrating fashion for the public. Engraved plates, often found in fashion magazines or cataloged in books, became the primary way people could view the latest styles. These illustrations were precise, intricate, and gave a clear idea of the textures and patterns of fabrics that were popular at the time.

This era also saw the rise of hand-drawn sketches for aristocratic patrons, which were often used to convey bespoke designs before garments were made. As the printing press advanced, so did the sophistication and reach of fashion illustrations, which set the stage for more commercial applications in the decades to come.

Retail Illustrations and Fashion Advertising

As retail rose in prominence during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, iconic department stores like Liberty of London began commissioning illustrators to promote their collections. This era coincided with the rise of advertising posters, retail promotional illustrations, and catalogs, all of which played a vital role in marketing fashion to a wider audience.

Illustrations became indispensable tools for bringing a sense of fantasy and exclusivity to fashion. Landmark stores such as Liberty’s, with its blend of classic British and cutting-edge design, showcased fashion illustrations as part of their window displays, advertising campaigns, and product catalogs. These illustrations emphasized elegance, charm, and sophistication, often using hand-drawn images that highlighted the fabrics and tailoring.

By the 1920s, artists such as Georges Lepape and Paul Iribe were creating avant-garde fashion illustrations for publications like Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, giving fashion a modernist, high-art look. The connection between fine art and fashion was firmly established.

The Big Players: High-End Fashion Illustrations

In the world of haute couture, illustrations have always been a critical part of the design process, and many iconic designers have left their mark on this field. Chanel, Gucci, Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, to name a few, relied on the artistry of illustrators to bring their visions to life before they were realized in fabric and stitching.

Coco Chanel's sketches often reflected her minimalist yet elegant style, with a keen focus on the shape and silhouette of her designs. Gucci, known for its bold patterns and rich textures, translated its signature look into intricate illustrations that captured the essence of luxury and glamour. Dior's iconic New Look was first seen in illustrations before it revolutionized post-war fashion. These illustrations weren't just functional but also artistic expressions in their own right, embodying the style and vision of each house.

Breaking the Rules: Alternative Illustrators

While many fashion illustrations followed the rules of precision and grace, some illustrators challenged these conventions and created a more unconventional, avant-garde aesthetic. Artists like Antonio Lopez, who rose to fame in the 1970s, brought a new level of sensuality, vibrancy, and dynamic movement to fashion illustration. His work for designers such as Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent captured the freewheeling energy of the era and stood out for its bold use of color and form.

Lopez and other alternative illustrators like René Gruau, who worked extensively with Dior, used exaggeration and abstraction to convey emotion and movement in their designs. These illustrators pushed the boundaries, moving away from traditional techniques and offering an edgier interpretation of high fashion.

The Digital Age: How Technology Has Transformed Fashion Illustration

The 21st century brought with it a monumental shift in the way fashion design is illustrated, thanks to the advent of digital tools. Software like Adobe Illustrator, Photoshop, and Procreate has revolutionized the illustration process, allowing designers to experiment with color, shape, and texture in ways that traditional pen and ink couldn't easily achieve.

Fashion designers now use digital tools for everything from quick concept sketches to fully realized, photorealistic renderings of their designs. The precision and flexibility offered by these tools have streamlined the design process, making it easier to create, adjust, and present fashion concepts in real time. This democratization of design tools also means that more aspiring fashion illustrators can enter the field without the need for formal training in traditional methods.

Moreover, the rise of 3D modeling and virtual clothing design has blurred the lines between illustration and garment creation. Some illustrators now work directly with digital fabrics and avatars, testing how garments will look, move, and fit before they're ever sewn. Fashion houses are also embracing augmented reality (AR) and virtual reality (VR), further enhancing how illustrations are viewed and interacted with in a digital landscape.

The Future of Fashion Illustration

While digital tools have expanded the possibilities for fashion illustration, there's still a demand for hand-drawn designs and alternative styles. Fashion illustration remains an art form that can merge the traditional with the contemporary, constantly evolving yet always reflecting the heartbeat of fashion itself. Today’s illustrators—whether working with pencils, paints, or pixels—continue to shape how we see and experience fashion.

As we move forward, fashion illustration will likely become even more integrated with cutting-edge technology, including AI-generated designs, but its roots in human creativity and craftsmanship will remain ever-present.

In a world increasingly dominated by mass production and fast fashion, the artisanal touch of a beautifully drawn fashion illustration reminds us of the artistry and care that goes into creating timeless style.